After arriving at my hotel much earlier than you would typically check in, I was able to leave my bags, take a shower, and stop by a grocery store. Today, I’m going on a 25-kilometer hike. Now, I know this isn’t some easy feat (and it wasn’t). However, after doing tons of research on the specific trail I wanted to complete and hiking such a distance, I felt confident I could complete the hike without dying. During my research, I discovered a path that runs from Listvyanka to Bolshie Koti. Listvyanka is located about 60 kilometers south of Irkutsk, right on Lake Baikal. Lake Baikal is the world’s largest freshwater lake. It holds over 20% of the fresh water on this planet, and in winter, it freezes nearly solid. Even sections of the lake run a kilometer deep – the whole thing is wild. Besides all those facts, I learned that you also need a permit to enter the Baikal National Park. So, after finishing up all my other prep, I headed to a government building where I would be to purchase this permit.

Once there, the lovely lady asked me how many people would be going, how many days, what areas, etc. She also made me aware of all the park’s rules, such as no open campfires, cleaning up after yourself, etc. Now, I planned to head down to the marina and catch a public ferry from Irkutsk to Bolshie Koti. Unfortunately, however, this process with the permit took too long. So, I ordered a taxi to Listvyanka and decided to start my hike there instead of starting at Bolshie Koti.

After hopping out of the taxi, I followed the signs to the beginning of the trial. I came upon an office where they checked my permit and let me off to hike. During my research, I found a map that detailed the path of the hiking trail. However, once I was hiking on the ground, I realized this map was much more generalization than a detailed map. Nevertheless, I pressed on, starting my hike at around 12:50. The first 4.5 kilometers of the trail are uphill, and it is not a joke. In that distance, you end up gaining 400 meters in altitude. After sweating my a** off, I finally made it to the point where the trail splits. The online guide said that shortly after the ascent, the path should split, and you need to turn right, which I did. After this, you descend, zig-zagging down the mountainous terrain until you get down to the altitude of Baikal. Now, I realized the map was more of a general outline because it shows about three zig-zags – there were nearly 7 in reality. After finally making it to the ground again, you do a little winding until you get to this mini rocky beach on Lake Baikal. I had done it – I made it to Lake Baikal. Let me tell you, the water is freezing! I sat down here and decided it would be best to rest after the ascent part of my hike; I also decided to eat the meat and cheese I packed (better while it’s still cold, you know).

After snapping some photos, I collected all my garbage and continued with my hike. I had no idea how much longer I was in for – let me tell you. I had estimated that I had made it to about the 7th or 8th kilometer, but I was wrong. It had maybe been a little over 5 kilometers. The hike went on and on and on and on. It seemed it would never end. I passed perhaps about 25 people in total during my hike. Everyone said hello and carried on with their journeys. Eventually, I came across another two beaches closely situated next to each other with sand instead of rocks. I snapped some photos and continued with my hike. With my map being a sorry excuse for one, I had to keep pace, or I might miss the return ferry (and I do not plan on missing the return ferry). Pressing on, it felt like forever. However, at the time, I was hiking on the edge of these hills on the cusp of the lake – the views were amazing.

Some time passed, and I had no proper understanding of my actual standing on this trail (thank you, useless map). However, I knew I was heading in the right direction as the route was marked. Eventually, I could see what seemed like it could be a ferry docked on the water. After getting closer to it, it became clear it was a private excursion. I was pretty mad because I couldn’t tell where I was on this trail, with no cell service throughout this whole hike, Yandex. Maps guesstimated that I was about 2-3 kilometers from Bolshie Koti. About 10 minutes after passing the private boat, I could see a dock with several others – Yandex was right. Checking the time, it was only 16:00, and I could slow my roll. The trail had flattened out, and I could slowly walk the last bit until I reached the end. The ferry doesn’t leave until 18:00 – I don’t want to sit for 2 hours. With about 1 kilometer to go, suddenly, a bunch of cows came around the corner. There was no farmer or owner in sight, just six cows. I had never been so close to one in my life before, and they oddly behaved like dogs. They all smelled me and carried on; one even believed I had food for them and looked at me like he was waiting for a treat.

Exiting the trail and walking into Bolshie Koti, I realized I was in for quite a wait. There was nothing here, not even cell service. So, I approached one of the boats and asked about getting home – they said it was cash only and first come, first served. I arrived more than an hour early and put up there on the list. The only other issue was that I didn’t have enough cash to pay for this boat. Fortunately, however, this group of young guys was able to spot me the cash I needed until I could transfer them some money once I got cell service. After we disembarked, the guys invited me to join them at a Russian Sauna (Banya), and I accepted. We searched for space in a Banya in Listvyanka and couldn’t find any. Eventually, we quit the search and went to grab some food. I should mention that the guys I met were Arkady, Misha, and Kostya. I didn’t eat much since my body was in shock, but the food was delicious. After taking our time eating and talking, I grabbed a cab and headed home for the evening. I have no idea how much pain I’ll be in tomorrow, but I know it’s going to.