Yekaterinburg

I loved this city; I did. Yekaterinburg is Russia’s 4th largest city, and everything seems to be pretty centrally located.

I left off by heading off to the hostel in my last post. After getting checked in and setting my stuff down, I grabbed my go-back and headed out. The weather was pristine, and I couldn’t miss the opportunity to walk around this city at night; my train out of Yekaterinburg was the following evening at 22:00. I walked up and down the city’s main artery, Ulitsa Lenina (Street of Lenin, Lenin’s Street), walked through several parks along the river, etc. Eventually, I realized that I needed to eat something, and being that it was a Thursday, my only late-night option was McDonald’s. After chowing down on my nine chicken nuggets and fries, I returned to the hostel and passed out.

The following day, I shot up at around 10 AM, checked out, stored my larger bag, and headed into the city. My first stop was to go to the city’s center and take photos, except in the daylight. I continued down a street to this famous red and blue house known as Dom Sevastyanova (House of Sevastyanov). It’s a historic home, beautifully painted, and right against the river. From there, I was able to see the Church on Blood peeking out over the city’s horizon. I didn’t even need a map to find it; I just walked towards its large golden domes in the sky. Along the way, I managed to come across one of the most popular and highly-rated restaurants in town, Pashtet. I took a mental note to walk this way when returning to the city’s center. At this time, restaurants could only use their outdoor dining areas in the city, so getting a table could be difficult, especially if the weather was good (which it was).

Upon reaching the Church on Blood, I realized how massive this church was. However, there’s quite a reason for it being so large and named that way. Following the revolution in 1917, the Romanov family was taken to Yekaterinburg for exile. (Later on, I’ll discuss my visit to Ganina Yama, where they resided in exile.) This church was where the family was executed to prevent their return to power. 

Entering this church was like entering a new dimension. The architecture, the paintings, the chandeliers, and so much more left me standing there, speechless. I spent most of my time here admiring everything your eyes could see, taking pictures, and respecting those who have come to pray. Across the street, there is the Church of the Ascension. While much smaller in size, it has tons of historical artwork. However, that church did not have a basilica, unlike the Church on Blood.

After visiting the two churches, I returned to Pashtet, the restaurant. I was able to get a table, thankfully. At the time, Yekaterinburg restaurants were able to operate outdoors. Perusing the lunch menu, I discovered that you got a complimentary glass of wine if you ordered three courses. I ordered a quinoa salad with salmon, borsch, and uva (I chose the red wine, btw). The meal was outstanding - I would recommend anyone traveling to Yekaterinburg stop here for a meal.

With my stomach full, I decided to go to Ganina Yama. After the revolution in 1917, the Romanov Family was moved to this remote spot in the woods outside of Yekaterinburg. Today, that place is known as Ganina Yama. I used a car-sharing service to get out there and return. Upon arrival, there was this feeling of bitter and unending sadness. It was simply too quiet. At Ganina Yama stands several churches, monuments, and structures. However, my words cannot do this place justice; there was simply nothing but silence and somberness. While I was there, I witnessed a mass being conducted. I am grateful I got to visit this place and was able to bear witness to it.

Upon returning from one of the bumpiest trips of my life (the drive out there was a smooth highway), I parked my car and set off to head to the highest point in the city. A hotel and business center, the Visotsky building, also has a viewing deck on its 52nd floor open to the public. With my student ID, it cost less than 5 dollars, and I got a ticket up to the top. I got some incredible city views with very few other people on the deck.

With my day nearly ending, I realized that I needed to eat before I headed back to grab my bag and stop at the store for food (for the train). After failing several times to get a spot at many restaurants and bars, I finally caved and went to Burger King. With the time of the essence, I made my way over to a shopping center where there was a large grocery store. After getting all the food I’d need for the trip to Novosibirsk, I walked back to my hostel and got my bag. Then, I ordered a taxi with less than 10 minutes to spare. I arrived at the train station. I quickly passed through security and made my way to my train. Now, 23 hours until Novosibirsk.